What is the proper manner of loading a carabiner for maximum strength?

The maximum strength of a carabiner is achieved through long-axis loading. This refers to the orientation where the load is applied along the spine of the carabiner, which is typically the strongest position for the carabiner. In this orientation, the forces are distributed evenly across the strongest part of the carabiner, allowing it to handle more weight without compromising its structural integrity.

Loading a carabiner in this manner minimizes the risk of failing under load. It also ensures that the major axis, which is designed to bear the force during climbing, rescue operations, or other applications, is effectively utilized. Using the long-axis position increases the safety margin and can prevent accidents that may arise from improper loading techniques.

In contrast, cross loading, short-axis loading, and hard linking all adversely affect the strength and reliability of the carabiner. These positions may lead to uneven force distribution, increasing the likelihood of failure during load-bearing situations.